There are two types of wax, liquid wax and paste wax. One of the most important aspects of waxing a floor is choosing the right floor wax. Wood floor care experts recommend waxing wooden floors every six month. Finding the Best Wax for Wood Floorsīuyers should always try to get best wax for their wood floors.
Older floors need to be waxed regularly to maintain a nice finish. If it doesn’t look shiny or glossy, and you can feel the original material, then it’s ready for waxing. To check for old treatments, the best thing to do is to touch the wood. That’s done by using an adequate stripping agent. If the answer is yes, any trace of the old treatment should first be removed. Finally, protect both stain and wood with two coats of Minwax® Helmsman® Spar Urethane.Waxing the floor can give it protection, make it shiny and non-slippery.Ĭompared to certain finishes which are synthetic, wax is a natural product.īefore waxing the floor, it’s always a clever idea to check if any treatment has been applied to the floor before. Then apply the Minwax® stain that best matches the surrounding trim. Wherever some of the old finish has disappeared and the wood has become water-stained, start by sanding off whatever remains of the old finish with 120-grit sandpaper. Following these three steps will ensure that the Helmsman® you apply will adhere to and protect both the old finish and the underlying wood. Then, lightly scuff the surface with 220-grit sandpaper or a synthetic sanding pad. First, clean off any wax and dirt with a cloth dipped in mineral spirits. If your existing urethane finish needs extra protection but not a total refinishing, you can re-coat it with Minwax® Helmsman® Spar Urethane, provided you follow the three rules for re-coating: clean, dry and scuff.
Window sills inside the house have a tough job: They have to look as good as interior trim, but they have to act like exterior trim, withstanding the effects of sunlight and moisture. If the new finish dries, hardens and adheres to the old one, it's safe to topcoat the rest of the piece. One other piece of advice: Before applying a fresh coat of finish over an existing one, test their compatibility on a small, hidden spot, such as the inside of a cabinet door. If neither solvent affects the finish, it is polyurethane. If lacquer thinner softens the finish, it is lacquer. If a cotton ball dipped in denatured alcohol softens the finish, it is shellac. The three finishes you are most likely to encounter–shellac, lacquer and polyurethane–can be identified by simple tests on an inconspicuous spot on the piece. If you suspect a piece you are about to restore has been waxed, remove the wax with a soft cloth dipped in mineral spirits. For example, no finish will adhere to paste wax. They have different chemical components that aren't always compatible with one another. Fortunately, all it takes is a few minutes–plus the right Minwax® products–to both roll back time and protect your wood for years to comeīefore starting, keep in mind that not all clear protective finishes are alike. Each day the wood around us, from floors and woodwork to furniture and fine antiques, is subjected to sunlight, grit, dust, moisture and dry air. We all wish that every piece of wood in our home could stay as fresh and beautiful as the day it was first finished, but that simply isn't possible.
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